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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.